Vaison-la-Romaine is a small town with a big history in France’s Vaucluse district. One side, set south of the river, rises up dramatically on an isolated rock. A Celtic oppidum was here, and later, medieval era people built their homes there, seeking shelter behind its gates, relying on the rock’s impressive defensive strengths.
But during the Pax Romana, between the Celtic era and the early medieval age, Gallo-Romans moved off the rock. They created a wealthy town and farming community on the other side of the river. Since 1906, excavations of the large theater and villas have uncovered fabulous mosaics, impressive, classical statuary, all at a sheer scale of size which demonstrates that they lived the good life here. Art and theater; Wine and olives; Then and now.
Today, vines grow on the slopes behind the upper town of Vaison and to get to them, the trail leads from a Roman bridge, through a medieval town, and by the site of a Celtic oppidum. This town’s circuit trail passes through history as well as vineyards. Passing near the base of the medieval castle, it leads into the hills and beautiful Vaucluse countryside. It heads past ancient quarries, modern wineries, and along quiet country lanes, as it heads up and away from Vaison. Once rounding the hill known as the Colline de la Serre Longue, away from the bustling small town, the countryside’s classic, Mediterranean feel takes hold.
The trail passes small, carefully tended vineyards in quick succession. Some vines are pruned in the goblet fashion, the short, dark trunks really standing out against autumn’s golden foliage. Bright golden sunlight glints silver off olive tree leaves; the groves here are small, but of long standing. And there are fruit trees in the fields, often marking the edges of vineyards. Scotch broom, holm oak and cypress trees line the sunken country lanes.
Another turn offers a vista of the famous, iconic, Mount Ventoux, a beloved landmark for all true Provençals. It stands tall in the distance. The dark, neighboring mountains frame its base, and the contrast reveals the massive size of Mount Ventoux. It often shines white at its peak, an inspirational beacon for painters and poets over the centuries, as well as for those who proudly call this region home.
As the circuit begins to close, Vaison’s rock and upper town come back into view. From this perspective as well, you can really appreciate the defensive opportunities this outcropping provided earlier inhabitants. The medieval castle crowning the top of the rock appears even more imposing. Detour to climb to it on the sheer ledge, and you will face the only challenging part of the day (but will be rewarded with the most expansive views of the day). Meandering through the old upper town, experience an apotheosis of stone medieval architecture: houses and wash huts, streets, gates, fountains. Down at the Roman bridge (technically the start of the trail), marvel that it is still standing, and over 2000 years later, still carrying traffic, and not just pedestrian!
From start to finish, this is a gentle trail in and around an ancient town, showcasing millennia of history, love of place, and love of life. Enjoy the wine!