My second trip to the Saale-Unstrut wine region, following my disastrous first trip (see here), occurred in the middle of January. My destination this time was the Weinbergsweg circuit trail. This hike proved a great, easy, family-friendly, circuit trail through vineyards, town and wooded areas, following along the Saale River as it circles through and around Bad Koesen in Saxony-Anhalt, Germany.

I began my hike by following the river. It was a lazy, but very scenic stretch along the Saale. This section also had several pubs and taverns, with outdoor seating overlooking the river. Ideal for a lovely summer afternoon or evening, but usually not available in winter. Vineyards were on the left, and flat, alluvial fields on the right.

Also, empty but on display, were many vintner huts, little shelters built in the vineyards. This wine region has many, more than some of the other wine regions in Germany. Some are more elegant than others, but all look inviting, be it during the cold of winter, or as a shady retreat during summer.

Vineyards in this section of the Saale-Unstrut wine region mostly lie on south facing slopes of the Saale or Unstrut River valleys. Hence walking these vineyards in winter is usually easy because the snow or ice will melt fairly quickly. This was true here. No ice or snow. It was a very cold, but sunny day, the afternoon sun warming my back while walking along the river. The circuit takes the form of a long, narrow oval, so once turning the corner, the sun was in my eyes, but sinking quickly.

The exposed flatness which had characterized the river section of the circuit, gave way to a short but somewhat steep climb. The exertion helped keep me warm when the trail left its river section, and entered into its wooded section. Once on top of the ridge, the views down the river, and across the valley were nice, especially in winter when the trees were bare.

Before long, the trail re-enters the town proper, and other attractions present themselves – not the least, cafes and taverns, for a nice warm coffee. Gluhwein, or hot mulled wine, did not appear on any of the menus I saw, unfortunately. Perhaps it is not popular in this region.

Bad Koesen itself is actually quite good, as far as other family-friendly activities goes. The “bad” in the town name actually refers to the German word for a spa, a location fed by natural springs, around which thermal establishments have developed.  Indeed, Bad Koesen has a nice bathing establishment with a couple of pools, a salt grotto and sauna, as well as a Gradierwerk. The word for it in English eludes me, but it is a unique construction built on a high wooden frame, filled in with sticks, down which slow but steady streams of salty water drip. (These feature in a number of German spa towns, and walking (slowly) along it is supposedly good for lungs.) There is also a small zoo. These attractions are in two opposing parks, strung along the Saale River, which may be crossed by a little ferry guided by a cable from one bank to the other. All these activities, not to mention the many hiking and biking trails, and canoe-tour itineraries (!) found nearby, mean that “Bad” Koesen is really great for wine-loving outdoor and nature enthusiasts like me!