In the Swabian hinterlands, both fruits of the vine and tree are made into alcoholic beverages. Both traditions have impressive roots, sometimes literally, dating back centuries, if not millennia. So, it was with great enthusiasm that I set off to explore this area on the Wein und Obst (Wine and Fruit) Tour.
Famed for both its orchards and vineyards, this idyllic Swabian interlude is located between Heilbronn and Stuttgart, two major cities in Swabia, both set along the Neckar River. Walheim, where the Wein und Obst Tour circuit officially begins, and neighboring Kirchheim am Neckar, where I began the circuit, are both small riverside towns. The trail connecting them followed the Neckar downstream, through shady copses, along the green embankment. It provided an easy warm-up for the rest of this trail.
In the gently rising flatlands behind Kirchheim, the first of many orchards came into view. Some of this fruit would be made into “Schnaps” an alcoholic drink with fruit must or flavor. Apple schnapps, pear schnapps, plum schnapps, apricot schnapps, cherry schnapps, and I am sure that is not all. (If it is a fruit, somebody has undoubtedly made it into an adult beverage at some point.) So devoted are the Swabians to these local specialties, that nearby Boennigheim is home to the Swabian Schnaps museum.
But the other passion in Swabia is wine. As the hills rose higher, I began to cycle through vineyards. The trail meandered along slopes with views of distant mountains crowned by forests, and fields of grain on lower terrain. Up hills, and down, all along accompanied by the delightful scent of fruit and pine trees.
Almost not a car in sight until I reached the village of Freudental. The name literally means Joy Valley, and I can see why, surrounded as it is by orchards and vineyards, in a tranquil nook where even the king of Wuerttemberg enjoyed summers here in a “small” getaway palace. A village wine festival was in full swing as I cycled through, spreading more joy as time and wine flowed on.
Once through Loechgau, the trail finally led downhill, along a trail as well-maintained as it was aesthetically pleasing, passing through vineyards, woods, and orchards along a quiet stream, all the way back to Walheim, where sampling the local beverages is more easily said than done! (Tip: Take your own to the Schoenste Weinsicht Besigheim, at Auf der Burg in Walheim.) While no wine or schnapps was to be had on this August Sunday afternoon, I certainly had my fill of vines and orchards on this delightful local trail.
