Fleurie means flowery, which this village undoubtedly is in spring and summer. But on my winter weekend break it was wet and windy. The weather only worsened as time went on. The rain turned into downpours. But after almost two days of rain, the forecasts called for a two to three-hour break in the rains. I decided to embark on one of Fleurie’s four circuit trails before leaving the area. Four great trails, seemingly designed for someone like me: wanting to hike, but with some time constraints. A great and convenient feature of the Entre Vignes et Bois (Between Vines and Woods) series of trails in Fleurie, is this: They are circuits that radiate out from the village in increasingly wider circles. Therefore, hikers can choose between one or another depending on time, capabilities, or in this case, weather.

Optimistically choosing the 12 kilometer (red) circuit, I set off from the Place de l’Eglise. But within 10 minutes, rain began to fall. A quick look at the sky confirmed that thick black clouds were rolling in faster than anticipated. So I switched to the four kilometer circuit instead. It was an easy decision to make on the spot. Should the downpours suddenly return, the map showed that this circuit also allowed for a couple of possible shortcuts, on tarmac, no less. This kind of flexibility created by interconnectivity is another great feature of the Entre Vignes et Bois trail series.

The trail begins with a climb through typical Beaujolais vineyards of drastically pruned, goblet-shaped vines set in loamy soil. Vineyards surround, and indeed invade Fleurie, flowing as they do around the houses on the edge of the old center, and their presence manifests its destiny to produce cru wines. The trail then enters a small wood, set atop a hill rising behind Fleurie. From various vantage points atop the hill, there are views of the plain of the Saone River to the east, and other wine villages such as Romaneche-Thorins and Chenas. To the west, the hill drops precipitously into a narrow, almost bowl-shaped valley, apparently also ideal for growing grapes, as vineyards climb the steep hills opposite, ending only where the tree line begins.

 

Once on the backside of the first hill, the full potential of the longer circuits loomed beyond. Had I done any of the longer hikes, the trails would have taken me to the distant hilltops. Those circuits climbed to the crest of the hills, hiking through a beautiful, thick forest. Looking out over the Saone Valley, far in the distance, there would have been the potential to see Mount Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps, weather permitting.

 

Instead, the short trail began its curve back into the village. Passing by old farmsteads, the trail leads below the key (and orientating) feature of this landscape: The Chapel of the Madonna. A signpost along this circuit indicates the trail to take to visit the site. Those who reach it are allegedly rewarded with expansive 360-degree panoramic views, to include the Alps on clear days. (While the other three circuits directly pass the chapel, this one did not. A quick detour would have taken me there within a quarter of an hour, but rain in the skies, and fog on the valley floor, precluded any expansive views that day, so I passed up the opportunity.)

 

 Unlike the other circuits, this trail headed downhill into town. Of all the trails, this trail and the 25-kilometer (yellow) one provide the best opportunity to explore Fleurie, a compact village with several wine cellars, a couple of restaurants, and the quintessential French main square: Town hall, church, market square, shops and a plane tree-lined street. This means picturesque, and the very name, Fleurie, means flowery.

 

Sadly, the far-from optimal weather that weekend precluded me from capturing the full charm of the village and surroundings by photo, and from exploring the full potential of these circuits. I have already decided to return some day – just probably not in the rain!