Feeling low on wine and romance? Then here is the cure: head to Bad Mergentheim. This delightful little spa town set in the valley of the Tauber, has water sources with the minerals that benefit the digestive system. Much as wine, in moderation, can do.
Small, and as remote (comparatively speaking) as it may be, chances are you have heard of it, or even driven through it. It is on the very first, and now the most famous, German car touring itinerary, the Romantic Road. This 200-plus mile itinerary stretches from the beautiful city to Wuerzburg, south to the Alps, passing through or by some of Germany’s most iconic attractions, quaintest villages, and spectacular scenery. The highlight in Bad Mergentheim is the imposing complex that once served as the headquarters of the Teutonic Order. (It now houses a museum detailing the history of the order, as well as local history.) It is here that the trail begins.
The trail soon entered a watery dreamland, with small ponds, rivulets, and canals, before crossing a pedestrian bridge into the well-manicured cure park. These parks often surround a thermal establishment, providing a peaceful and relaxing landscape for those “taking the cure”. Sadly, no mineral water for me that day, as the fountains were closed at that time. Nonetheless, this was still a nice, easy stroll through the park, before hitting the incline.
As the trail rose above the town into the hills, the landscape became less manicured and increasingly wild. This segment included a forest offering plenty of shade. Here the trail is at its roughest, being on a slightly uneven surface, as it inclines and declines. (But that said, the trail is still very well maintained.) Down a hill, across a narrow draw and up on the other side, the trail finally opened up, and the distant views began. This section of trail on the Altenberg, running high on the hill, has old terraces holding equally old fruit trees and meadows. Agricultural fields lie on flat land, closer to the river below. Shortly thereafter, the town runs through the village of Igersheim.
There is another climb, and acres of vines begin, before crossing the Tauber River and coming to the town of Markelsheim. This is the town that seems to be the wine center for this area, judging from not only the cooperative, but also the sheer number of family wineries in town. (I might also add, that I have never had a bad meal there in the major restaurants lining the main street. Yet another proof that good food and good wine tend to reside together.)
The return leg of the trail goes behind the hills lining the river and consists exclusively agricultural hinterland, alternating between fields, vineyards and tree line, until re-entering Bad Mergentheim. It provides a welcome idyllic interlude before facing the distractions of civilization, of which there were plenty as the trail entered the main square. Colorful architecture lines the mostly traffic-free square, from half-timbered houses, to a medieval structure with a stepped roof, to later, more elegant buildings such as the Zwillingshaus, or twin house, on the far end of the square. These picturesque buildings house shops and a number of cafes, serving food and local wine, hence an ideal ending point for this great trail.
