If you have never seen the Baroque architecture of southern Germany, then you are missing a treat. The extravagance of the forms, the flamboyance of the colors, are not usually found in nature, which is what made such an interesting juxtaposition on this winter hike.

The trail, entitled Wein Barock, presumably intended as its highlights the pilgrimage basilica of Birnau, and the vineyards surrounding it. Equally as impressive to me, was the scenic beauty of the Swiss Alps, and Lake Constance, also enjoyed from this trail.

This trail is set entirely in the township of Uhldingen-Muehlhofen, made up of the villages of Unteruhldingen, Oberuhldingen, and Muehlhofen, which progress respectively, from the lake front to the hills. The circuit officially begins in Oberuhldingen, proceeding from its homey center, and quickly comes to the surrounding countryside.

The trail meanders along the Egersee, a small pond enveloped in stillness on that winter day. As it climbs, the trail enters woodland. Some shade would be available on hot, sunny summer days, here, as well as at the other end of the route.

 

At the top of the climb, the first vineyards planted on the Kirchhalde come into view. So does the wine tavern, the Birnauer Oberhof. The tavern sells wines from the Markgraf of Baden winery, some of which conveniently come from the Kirchhalde vineyards. But sadly, it was closed the day I was there.

 

Passing downhill, under the main road, the next attraction was the basilica. Cotton-candy pink, it is unmissable. Unlike the tavern, it is open year-round as it is still an active church. Inside, the explosion of color and form stupefied, and lightened up an otherwise rather bland winter day.  Like the extravagant curves of old vines, stucco forms twisted and turned up and along walls. Vinaceous robes or flowers appeared throughout. Visitors may not photograph inside, but online photos will give you an idea of the incredibly ornate decoration in this splendid example of a Baroque church.

 

Outside, the broad terrace provides stunning views of the entire region. Lake Constance lies below, and extends far to the left and far to the right. In the (relatively) short distance across the lake, the Swiss towns dotting the shoreline are visible. The snow-covered Alps rise up some distance behind the towns. The atmospherics that day, a haze on the water, overlit by a weak sun, did not allow for great photos.

 

Downhill through vineyards, the trail reached the rocky shoreline. The lake is fairly shallow, lined by luxuriant swathes of reeds in many places. It is a watery area, as little streams criss-crossed the fields on their way to the lake. The trail followed one of these, the Aach, on a peaceful path back into Oberuhlidingen, closing the loop, and ending my hike.

 

From complex, man-made patterns of form and color to glorious, unadorned nature, there was quite a diversity of visual offerings along the route. The wine of the area pursued a middle road: given by nature, and enhanced by man, a simple product became a mélange of rich and complex flavors and colors. Thus, sipping the wine while admiring the architecture and the Alps, becomes a truly baroque experience for any hiker or lover of wine.