Be prepared is the scout’s motto. And when winter hikers (like me that day) do not heed that advice, there can be unanticipated results, but fortunately friendly help can save the day. It was in the thirties and overcast when I began my drive to this hiking trail. Two hours later, it was below freezing and snowing, definitely not the spring weather I optimistically decided would certainly prevail in March. I decided to start the hike anyway, and arranged to meet a friend for lunch in Handthal, about midway to Breitbach from Gerolzhofen.
To be clear, the Weinsteiger trail itself-its condition, its signage, even its itinerary-was quite good. I intend to return someday to complete the itinerary, and enjoy the sights and adventures on offer along the trail. The issue was my lack of preparation for the weather, which can be colder, due to the elevation and exposure, than other parts of Franconia.
As the temperatures dropped, the quickening snow buried the ice-covered paths, paths that had not thawed or cleared from earlier snows that year. Outside of Gerolzhofen, where I began, this did not really present a problem. But as the trail approached the forest, and began to climb, this became more troublesome. Each step forward slid sideways, or worse, backwards. I changed tactics, and tried to walk through brush on along the trail sides. I began to wish I had brought my waterproof hiking boots, with the higher tops.
Additionally, I’d failed to bring my trusty LL Bean pull on crampons. The hill leading to the charming Gertraudis Chapel, and further on, the hill leading to the Stollburg castle ruins were a challenge without the additional traction. These are fairly short, but somewhat steep inclines. Normally I enjoy these little challenges, especially since it is always a pleasure to see the locally cherished landmarks usually found on hilltops here, such as the chapel or castle ruins. But on that day, I could foresee my own ruination, through a broken arm or leg, caused by my own unpreparedness.
Sadly, I spent much of the hike looking down at my feet that day. The countryside, bedecked in shades of white and grey, was coldly beautiful. The views, even with the reduced visibility, would normally have been visions of wonder to behold. The swirling snow and all-encompassing hush created a wonderful winter hiking atmosphere.
The terrain flattens out somewhat by Mutzenroth, but after that, the hike became a slog up hills, combined with some exhilarating slides down hills. Over half an hour late, I finally met my friend for lunch in Handthal. This charming village looked magical in the snow, and the Brunnenhof Restaurant, with its great wine and food selections, was a welcome respite from the ice and snow.
A helpful waitress, a local, assured me that from the restaurant to Oberschwarzach the trail was flat and sheltered by trees. I decided to continue, at least to the source of the Schwarzach Creek. I found it, in a very marshy area, surrounded by water. Not much to look at, but for me, it has some meaning. This creek feeds into the Main River by the town of Schwarzach am Main, a town about 10 miles to the west. Two wine country bike rides I have completed lead past Schwarzach am Main , and its ancient, yet still working, abbey.
Thinking there might be connection between that abbey and the chapel on high ground visible from the Schwarzach source, I continued on toward the Vierzehn Nothelfer chapel outside the village of Kammerforst. But, apparently no connection exists, so I called it a day, and headed back to the Schwarzach source. There, I met up with my best friend again, and silently thanked the Vierzehn Nothelfer (Fourteen Emergency Helpers) for him, because like them, he always helps this compulsive hiker, when need be, with a lift, or extra water, and occasionally, a good bottle of wine in hand!