Strung together like a string of pearls, the vineyards of Valtellina occupy terraces along south-facing mountainsides in this spectacular Italian wine region. The vineyards climb vertiginously away from towns along the Adda River, up to villages clinging to the side of the mountain.

Hiking in this area sharpens your appreciation of the economic and physical difficulties the local vintners experience to bring in the harvest! Thus, I decided to hike the Via dei Terrazzamenti, which follows along the terraced vineyards on the mountain slopes north of the Adda River. It passes directly through some famous Valtellina vineyards: Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Valgella, and Inferno.

 

I began in the vineyard area known as Valgella, and went through hell, or close enough to it – the vineyard area known as Inferno – and ended in the Grumello vineyards. Getting to the Via dei Terrazzamenti is the challenge, just as it is for the growers. The climb out of Chiuro, where I began, to above Ponte in Valtellina is long and fairly steep – but certainly not the longest, nor the steepest. The reward, of course, is all the magnificent, panoramic views. These are seriously breath-taking views: Razor sharp Alpine peaks, dramatic chasms, and the twisting valley of the Adda River. In the fall, these become color saturated views which never cease to amaze.

 

There are other rewards as well along this trail which currently stretches for about 50 miles – from Tirano to Morbegno. There are picnic areas, rest spots and even potable water fountainheads. This trail continues to evolve – since I hiked it authorities have extended it west from Berbenno to Morbegno – but is well laid out thus far, which along with the amenities listed above, includes relatively good signage. Vineyards may be found along much of the trail, stopping outside Ardenno, just a few miles east of Morbegno. Hence opportunities to appreciate wine and wine-tasting abound in this area.  But there is much more than that in this gorgeous valley.

 

Some of my favorite memories accrued along the trail include the wooded areas, colorful and shady, restful spots to reflect on natures beauty. Where the only sound was the sound of mountain streams coursing downhill, cascading down rocks, surging through narrow natural channels.

 

I loved the little villages and hamlets along the way. Each had its own charm and attractions. These too were generally quiet. Winding, narrow lanes weave between ancient chapels and quaint houses. Quiet places of darkened stone, taken from the mountains. Intimate places, where time seems to have stood still.

 

All along the way, terraces held vines. From the shadow of the ridge of a spur, into a brightly lit sun-filled slope, the terraces were impressive works of engineering on a human scale, representing decades, if not centuries of patient labor by men who called this steep, rocky terrain home. These vineyards were intimately known to the vintners, who gave them names.

 

Of the three vineyard areas I traversed, I liked the Inferno wines the best, although Grumello wines followed a close second. A couple years earlier, I had completed the Sentiero Valtellina bike trail. The bike trail follows the Adda River (see here), providing impressive views of the vineyards on the mountain slopes on the opposite side of the river valley. But on this trail, hikers have a fantastic opportunity to see them up close.

 

Entering the well-known Grumello vineyard area, around the village of Ponchiera, signaled the end of my hike on this trail, for the time being. I was determined to spend the remainder of the day and night in Sondrio. There I had time to sample the heavenly wine of the region, and reflect on my trip through “hell” in this beautiful paradise called Valtellina.