Rhine River Valley
Gateway to Klevener de Heiligenstein
Heiligenstein Vineyards
Village of Heiligenstein
Last Stop on the Trail
Gallery February 2024
Gallery January 2024
Toward the Odenwald
Silhouetted on a Winter Sky
Above the Hills – Castle Starkenburg
In a Darkening Dale
The Lauter Creek
Old Terraces
Winter Colors
Market Day in Bensheim
Winter Color
Village of Zell
Half-Timbered Houses in Gronau
Castle – Starkenburg
Old Trees in Winter
Gallery December 2023
Bend in the Moselle
Still Life in Slate
Roses in December!
Mehring: Through the Vineyards
Woodland Trails Above the Moselle
High Above the Moselle
Mistletoe in Christmas Season
The Old Moselle
Along the Roemische Weinstrasse, that section of the Mosel where Romanitas arguably reached its maximum expression in Germany, there are many reminders of the era that once was, and what it became. For these two reasons alone, the hike along some of the best vineyards found in this stretch of the Moselle was a rewarding experience.
Trier, once the capital of the Roman Empire, is itself worth a hike through the city. A magnificent city gate (Porta Nigra), the basilica of Aula Palatine, an amphitheater, baths, a bridge, impressively show the former grandeur of this city. The nearby village of Mehring also boasts villa ruins dating to that era. In short, back in the day, this city and the surrounding countryside was the place to be. While neither place is as grandiose as it once was, that remains in this area is dedicated wine-making, and impressive views.
The circuit hike began in the center of Mehring, on the left bank of the Moselle, opposite the former villa. The circuit began with a climb up through the vineyards to the grill hut near the top. A great place to grill and enjoy the view, before continuing on up the hill heading beyond the Blattenberg vineyard toward the Goldkupp one. This is one of the most highly esteemed vineyards in the area, and with its steep slope, and southern exposure, it is favorably sited for vines! Undoubtedly, vines grew here during the Roman era as well.
Soon I came to the 10,000 liter wine barrel. Converted into a picnic area, it offers nice views of Goldkupp. Being just above 500 meters below the Ortsberg peak, it also had great views of the river and the hills beyond. It was just possible to make out the Roman villa ruins on the other side of the river. Unfortunately, I had no wine to sip as I admired the views seated at the picnic table.
The trail then curved behind the slightly lower Hundsbuckel peak. One nice thing about this trail is that some of it passes through woods, along shady paths that in summer would be a welcome break. Between vines and woods were fields, marginal areas not suited for grapes. Vineyards appeared again on the lower reaches of the slope, just outside of the village. At that point, looking up at the vineyards served to illustrate just how much this village is devoted to wine, how the vines dominate it, as undoubtedly it has for centuries.
Passing back through the village center on the left bank, one is struck by how medieval it is. You can tell from the street layout. In the mid-eighth century, Charlemagne’s father donated the area to the Prum Abbey, and it then became their most important wine-making place, indicating that Frankish warlords, after taking control from the Roman administration, at least let things continue as they had under the previous administration. (Charlemagne himself, from his old Roman-era villa at Ingelheim, directed that grapes be planted opposite his villa, on the sunny slope, where the “winter snows first melted.”)
From the village center, taking a small detour to the river is advised. Or even more adventurous, cross the bridge to visit the villa ruins, always open, and worth a visit. From there, I admired the vineyards from afar, and contemplated the good life the owners must have had with their wines in their comfortable villa on this lovely stretch of the upper Moselle. Eons of time and generations of experience helped this lovely district evolve into what it now is, and nowadays it is certainly a place to be seen and savored!
Wine Notes: Bernkastel Moselle
What I Learned
The Mosel (Moselle)-Saar Ruwer Wine Region is a large one. The focus here is the wine growths directly along the Moselle River valley, which is classified into three sections: The Southern (Upper) Moselle area, the Bernkastel (Middle) Moselle area, and the Terraced (Lower) Moselle.
The Upper Moselle (in Germany) begins at the French border, at Perl, opposite the Luxembourg town of Schengen. It follows the river downstream. The soil here is characterized by shell limestone, marl and sediment. The slopes here are fairly gentle, and the Saar River joins into the Moselle at the edge of this zone. This area ends where it abuts against the Bernkastel (Middle) Moselle zone, around the city of Trier. The Ruwer district joins the Moselle above Trier, then the Bernkastel zone begins again by Kenn, and continues uninterrupted almost reaching Zell (Mosel). Most visitors begin their Moselle visits at Bernkastel-Kues, and follow downriver to Zell and Cochem, even to Koblenz on the Rhine, thus missing this southern Bernkastel area completely. In this middle district, I mostly focused on wines from Mehring, and its well-known Goldkupp and Zellerberg vineyards. The area around Trier (famous for Karl Marx and the Romans), produced some interesting wines as well. This is where Roman history and great wine terroir combine to create a compelling experience for wine tourists.
What I Tasted
2017 Riesling Spaetlese, Mehringer Goldkupp, Trocken, Praedikatswein, Weingut Sebastiani (Mehring): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; floral, mineral nose, with spice mustard, slight turpentine, and fruit flavors, medium plus acidity, with a tart finish.
2017 Riesling, Mehringer Zellerberg, Hochgewaechs, Halb-Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Sebastiani: An off-dry white wine with pale plus gold color; a slightly mineral nose, with green apples, and green gooseberry flavors.
2017 Riesling Auslese, Mehringer Goldkupp, Trocken, Praedikatswein, Weingut Sebastiani: A sweet white wine with medium minus gold color; a ripe, fruity nose, with ripe peach and apricot flavors; mild acidity, and well-balanced overall.
2017 Weissburgunder, Mehringer Zellerberg, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Sebastiani: A dry white wine with pale gold color; a slight nose of fruit, and green apple flavor, with a hint of minerality; Medium acidity.
2016 Dornfelder, Auf Schock, Trocken, QbA, Weingut Jutta Fassian (Mehring): A dry red wine with dark garnet color; cherry nose with a hint of tobacco, cherry, pipe tobacco and oak flavors; soft, mild tannins, smooth finish, with a velvety mouthfeel.
2016 Riesling, Trierer Sankt Mattheiser, Hochgewaechs, Feinherb, Qualitaetswein, Weingut H. Wahlen (Trier): An off-dry white wine with light gold color, fruity and mineral nose, with floral and ripe peach flavors; medium acidity, smooth, sweet finish.
2015 Spaetburgunder Rose, Halb-Trocken, QbA, Weingut Longen-Schloeder (Longen-Longuich): An off-dry rose with a light cranberry color; slight red berry and floral nose, with red berry and vanilla flavors, hint of stone-mineral; smooth finish.
Mehring R5: Trail in a Nutshell
Trail Name: Roemische Weinstrasse Mehring R5
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail mostly good
Length:
Total – 9.8 kilometers/ 6.08 miles
Convenient to: Trier, Germany
Marking:
White and yellow metal square with lettering R5 in black, stylized hikers; and/or directional arrows with trail number on posts
Trail Description: An easy circuit, suitable for most families, that traverses vineyards, pastures, and copses, and passing through Mehring’s village center. While there are plentiful rest spots, snack/bar establishments, and hiking huts to picnic in along the trail, you will want to spend your time admiring the bird’s eye views of the Moselle, and the surrounding hills.
Trailhead:
Mehring: Deierbachstrasse x Schulstr
Parking:
Mehring: a small lot (about 20 cars) at Lintnerstrasse x Deierbachstrasse
Mehring: a small lot downhill from the one above on Deierbachstrasse
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: No train service, per se
Bus: The Moselbahn bus has frequent daytime service from Trier to Mehring, stopping at several villages along the way.
Suggested Stages:
Not applicable
Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)
Mehring: from parking lot at follow Deierbachstr uphill, right onto Schulstr, and stay left on Schulstr uphill to Roemerstr-Goldkuppstr-Bornstr, crossing Am Rebenhang into vineyards; follow the long uphill lane to Huxlay Hutte; follow signs for the Kapelle; then along vineyards to the 10,000 Liter Fass (big wine barrel); follow the tree line, enter the woods, continue to follow the trail leading towards (but not necessarily to): Zitronenkraemerkreuz, Aulkreuz, and Hundsbuckel; heading downhill, the woods end and vineyards begin again; following the Muehlenbach creek past a small pond; past the Dreitaeler Weinkommission, right onto Steinkaul downhill, and right back onto Deierbachstr.
Representative Trail Photos:
Restrooms:
Mehring (exterior door attached to the town hall/tourist/ Wein u. Heimat Museum building open Apr-Oct (as of Nov 2023))
Attractions on or near Trail:
The Wein and Heimat Museum from April to October; otherwise just lots of scenery and good wine
Tasting along the Trail:
About 20 wine-makers have cellars in Mehring, and at various times, they are open for tastings. In addition to these, and restaurants in the village, there are three wine bars.
Alternative Options:
Hiking: Hiking enthusiasts will find a diverse (circuit, long-distance, family, challenging or easy…) selection of trails, to include wine themed hiking trails, all along the Mosel. Especially popular, albeit not exclusively wine-themed, is the Moselsteig.
Biking: The 248 kilometer Mosel-Radweg (Mosel Bike Trail) begins in Trier passes through Mehring, thence all the way to Koblenz. This beloved bike itinerary, mostly on paved surfaces, and much of it on dedicated bike trail, while not exclusively wine-themed, is a must-do (at-least-once-in-a-lifetime) experience for young and old wine enthusiasts. See the Nutshell here.
Additional Information:
Trail specific: https://www.bergfex.com/sommer/rheinland-pfalz/touren/wanderung/162982,rundwanderweg-mehring–hundsbuckel–huxlay-plateau–mehring-r5/
Comments:
An easily achievable hiking opportunity (and with lots of other options) for almost all visitors to the Moselle valley, to experience a beautiful setting in a world-class wine region, without the crowds.
Gallery November 2023
Reflections of a Rowboat in Shadows
Homburg am Main
Kloster Triefenstein
Pear Schnapps Potential Unfulfilled!
Forest Along the Main
Marktplatz in Marktheidenfeld
View of Lower Franconia
Mill on the Trail
Bridge Over the Aalbach at Holzkirchen
Two States of Mind
Forty-five kilometers by bicycle through two wine regions, on a late September day with beautiful weather, on an easy itinerary in a quiet spot between Bavaria and Baden-Wuerttemberg – two different wine districts in two different wine regions. No wonder I was enjoying myself!
Neither Bavaria nor Baden-Wuerttemberg are wine regions, per se. Rather, the Franconian Wine Region’s Mainviereck wine district lies in this distant corner of Bavaria. Baden-Wuerttemberg (a political creation post-WWII, amalgamating the states of Baden and Wuerttemberg) both have wine regions named after them individually. Here, the vineyards belong to Baden’s Tauberfranken wine district.
Beginning in Bavaria, in Uettlingen, the trail proceeded through fields of wheat, slightly uphill, through and beyond the neighboring village of Remlingen, with its attractive church, reaching Tiefenthal through shady copses. At this point, the trail began to follow along the Erlenbach Creek, and for the remainder of the circuit, the trail followed waterways, with vineyards ranged along slopes rising above them.
The Erlenbach Creek continued northwest, in its quest to join the Main River. But the trail diverged, leading into the delightful old town of Marktheidenfeld. Its historic center has its narrow lanes flanked by an architectural smorgasbord. (The Franck House is particularly interesting example of baroque architecture.) Museums, pubs, restaurants, and the lovely park along the Main, invite cyclists to stop and visit.
In Marktheidenfeld, the trail met up with one of my old favorites, the Mainradweg. This is a 600 km long itinerary following mostly along the river, and much of it is on dedicated bicycle path! So, I happily followed it south (downriver), crossing the Erlenbach where it joined the Main, enjoying the beauty and impeccable trail surface for quite some time. (Germany has some of the best bicycle paths in the entire world (IMHO)!)
This very easy section of the itinerary would end, of course, but in the meantime, there are the sights and sounds of the river, from day boaters to small cruise ships, castles and monasteries on not-to-distant hilltops, and all sorts of waterfowl and fish, all enjoying the day.
The trail soon reached Lengfurt and Homburg am Main, two villages with famous vineyards. One, the Lengfurter Oberrot, could be compared to a French Premier Cru, and the Homburg vineyard, the Kallmuth, is comparable to a Grand Cru. Wine here is serious business and has been since medieval times. A medieval monastery stands high atop the bank opposite Lengfurt, and a castle, the monastery’s political/military counterpart, sits atop the river bank in Homburg. (Find those combinations in European wine country, and good vineyards making good wine are usually close by.)
The Main is famous for its loops. The next village, Bettingen, marks the start of a narrow one, which would be less than 2000 feet/500 meters, from one side of the “peninsula” to the other. But before that, the trail crossed from Bavaria (usually more famous for its beer than its wine) into Baden-Wuerttemberg (more famous for its wine (which is hard to find outside Germany), and less famous for its beer). At Bettingen, the trail leaves the river, and climbs uphill, and traverses the highway on a pedestrian bridge, to Wertheim Village, a famous factory outlet “village”.
Cycling from the Main, high on a plateau, the trail lead through Baden’s Tauberfranken vineyards, interspersed with fields and forests. The trail followed a little creek upstream, leading to one of the last surprises of this itinerary: a huge monastic complex in the tiny village of Holzkirchen. Now, a center for meditation and mindfulness, it was set against a backdrop of deep forest green and quiet gardens, with the little Aalbach creek gently trickling by.
On the way back to the start, through a still forest on a soft trail, I realized the dichotomous aspects of the experiences along this trail: of two wine regions, of water and land, of diverse political and religious communities, unified by the Zen of it all.
Wine Notes: Franconia’s Mainviereck
What I Learned
Baden and Wuerttemberg, formerly two different principalities, joined in 1952 to become one state in the Federal Republic of Germany. However, the Baden wine region and the Wuerttemberg wine region remain distinct. (There is no such thing as a Baden-Wuerttemberg wine region.) But in the northern-most corner of the old Baden, and west of Wuerzburg in the far western corner of Bavaria, two wine regions, the Franken and the Baden, meet to form a complex mosaic of wine districts and famous growths. The Schoppen Radweg bicycle trail took me through the vineyards of these regions from the Wertheim am Main to Marktheidenfeld, Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld and along the Main River to Homburg am Main.
Franconian Terroir:
The Franken region has three zones, the Steigerwald, the Maindreieck (Main Triangle), and the Mainviereck (Main Rectangle). Both the latter two lie along the Main River, but geologically they are very different terroir. Shell limestone soils predominate in the Maindreieck, and results in very different wines from wines grown in the red sandstone of the Mainviereck. The small area around Marktheidenfeld and Homburg am Main lies in between these two Franconian wine districts, and the soils reflect its position between the two. The best vineyards in this district face the Main River as it twists south yet again. The most prized vineyards are the Kallmuth by Homburg am Main, and the Lengfurter Oberrot (The rot (red) referring to the red sandstone of the Mainviereck that begins to appear here along with the shell limestone of the Maindreieck.) This small area produces both red and white wines: Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Silvaner being especially popular here.
Baden Terroir:
The Baden wine district here (one of nine in the Baden wine region) forms part of the Tauberfranken district (even though it is not along the Tauber River here). The vineyards face south, along the small valley of the Aalbach, as it heads toward the Main. The Tauberfranken district produces primarily white wines, with Mueller-Thurgau leading in amount.
What I Tasted
2016 Spaetburgunder, Lengfurter Oberrot, QbA, Trocken, Weinhaus Frank: A dry red wine with medium red plus ruby red color; a nose of vanilla, blackberry and cherry; with oak, vanilla and cherry flavors; medium tannins, with a smooth finish.
2016 Silvaner, Homburger Kallmuth, QbA, Trocken, Weingut Blank: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a fruity and slightly mineral nose, with slight vanilla, nutmeg, and white peach flavors; medium plus acidity with a green apple finish.
2017 Weisser Burgunder, Homburger Kallmuth, Kabinett, Trocken, Weingut Huller: A dry white wine with dark minus yellow gold color; a fruity nose with hints of peach, gooseberry and citrus; with flavors of tangy green apple, and ripe red apple; medium minus acidity.
Schoppenradweg: Trail in a Nutshell
Trail Name: Schoppenradweg
Trail Type: A medium distance cycling circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail is good.
Length:
Total – 45 kilometers/28 miles
Convenient to: Wertheim, or Wuerzburg, Germany
Marking: Schoppen (wine glass) with bike
Trail Description: An easy and pleasant circuit through a wide variety of landscapes, with lots of history, views and things to do, on bike paths that are excellently maintained and a pleasure to ride on.
Trailhead:
Official: Erlenbach Bei Marktheidenfeld
Me: Uettingen (B): Helmstadterstrasse-Hauptstrasse
Parking:
Uettingen: Am Graben x Muehlweg, a large paved parking area
Erlenbach Bei Marktheidenfeld: large paved parking lot at Wiesenweg x Hirtenweg, by the Festhalle
Marktheidenfeld: Parkplatz Mainkai, large paved parking lot just before the bridge, off Brueckenstrasse
Lengfurt: Off St2299, by the river, a large free, and paved lot
Public Transportation Options:
Bus: Buses are the only option in this area, run by the VVM (a Main region company). But they are linked with the Deutsche Bahn site for details. See https://int.bahn.de/en
Suggested Stages:
Not Applicable
Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)
Uettingen: Hauptstrasse-Kirchbergstrasse, Birkenfelderweg, fields; Remlingen: Cross Weberleinsweg x Birkenfelderstrasse, to Birkenfelderstrasse, Zehntbergweg; Tiefenthal: Kreuzstrasse, Obere G Strasse, Wasserweg, cross Hauptstrasse to path along creek; Erlenbach: Wiesenweg, Im Bruhl, left at lone farm house to pass under Wuerzburgerstrasse, fields; Marktheidenfeld: Am Weiler, under Dillbergstrasse, along creek path, under Sudring, Lohgraben under B8 to Friedenstrasse, Kreuzbergstrasse, cross B8 to Mitteltorstrasse-Fahrgasse, to Main River trail; pass Mainuferbiergarten, pass Klaeranlage; Lengfurt: Along the river; Homburg: under ST2299, Maintalstrasse, under ST2299, along river: Bettingen: Geiselbrunnweg, Dorfstrasse-Hauptstrasse, Dertingerweg, over A3 on Almosenberg, Hymerring, pass Kletterpark; Dertingen: Sandweg, Albachstrasse/L2310, Al Mandelberg; Wuestenzell: Along the Aalbach; Holzkirchen: Bruckenstrasse, Baltasar Neumannstrasse (P), Klosterstrasse, fields, forests; Uettingen: Untere Muhle-Hollerbuschweg
Representative Trail Photos:
Restrooms:
Marktheidenfeld: Marktplatz, between the Volkshochschule and St Laurentius Church
Lengfurt/Triefenstein: downriver from the parking lot, off Sr2299. Look for a small green corrugated structure
Attractions on or near Trail:
Marktheidenfeld – the Franck-Haus is a fine building constructed in the baroque for a wealthy wine merchant. Recently renovated, the façade, baroque rooms and the old wine cellar are worth a visit. Exhibits rotate in other parts of the building as well.
Homburg – Rebsortengarten, (a grape varietal garden), a collection of vines (with labels) providing a quick reference for grape varietals grown regionally.
Tasting along the Trail:
Marktheidenfeld – Several pubs and restaurants offer local wines.
Lengfurt/Triefenstein and Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld both have a couple of wineries and vineyards outside the village.
Homburg am Main is the village with the most choices for wineries or wine shops, and is the site of the famous Kallmuth vineyard along the slopes overlooking the river.
Alternative Options:
Hiking: Homburger Weinwanderweg, a 10 kilometer/6 mile long trail beginning and ending in Homburg, is a fairly easy route through town, vineyards and forest, with river views along much of the way.
Additional Information:
Regional: https://www.main-spessart.de/themen/tourismus-kultur/19.Tourismus–Kultur-im-Landkreis.html
Trail specific: https://www.gemeinde-erlenbach.de/tourismusfreizeit/radwege/
Comments:
One of the biggest wine festivals of this area is the Weinfest Homburg, in Homburg/Triefenstein, every end of July to the first weekend in August, in the old castle courtyard.
From Bettingen to Uettingen, the Schoppen Radweg itinerary is the same as the Romantische Strasse bicycle itinerary. After Uettingen the 498.25 kilometer itinerary continues about another 15 kilometers (a bit less than 10 miles) to Wuerzburg, the northern terminus of the Romantische Strasse, for both cars and bicycles.
Note that both Lengfurt and Homburg am Main are part of the Triefenstein community. Therefore, tourist information about this part of the trail may be found under https://tourismus-triefenstein.de/